Expat Retirees should know that las “pulpes” continue to survive –barely

In case you don’t know the term “pulpe” is short for pulpería. The latter is a type of traditional mom and pop corner grocery store in Costa Rica.

In recent years large supermarket chains like Walmart, MaxiPali, Más por Menos and Automercado, as well as independent supermarkets and mini-supers together with with a change in consumer’s habits have virtually put many pulperías out of business. Consequently, most pulpes are trying to survive in the face of the stiff competition.

Despite many types of competitors there are still, at last count, 2, 224 of these establishments countrywide. In fact, they make up 23 percent of stores in most neighborhoods. Perhaps this is due to the fact that they are deeply embedded in Costa Rica culture and tradition. They are also an integral part of the neighborhood’s social life where the locals meet, debate soccer, and keep abreast of news and gossip.

By the way, the proprietor of these establishments is called el pulpero/a. In addition to being a grocer the pulpero gives merchandise on credit (crédito)to his most trusted and long-time customers. This type of credit is called “de fiado.” The store’s owner has a little booklet (cuaderno or libreta in Spanish) where he or she jots down the price of each item clients receive on credit.

On an interesting note, pulperías are used as reference point when looking for specific addresses in the neighborhood. Since the pulperos know everyone in the neighborhood, the police and others often question them when looking for someone who lives in the vicinity.

At La Madrileña pulpería in the town of Tibás, just outside of downtown San José, mothers traditionally still bring their small babies so that the pulpero can weigh them on his large scale. In the old days this method was especially used to keep track of the growth and development of babies.

Pulpería owners now have a valuable ally in their fight for survival. Fundes for Latin America is an organization that provides support networks, advice and technology for small businesses including pulperías.