Another San José landmark bites the dust while others fight to survive

Recently, Chelles, on corner Central Avenue and 9th Street, closed its doors. The iconic restaurant and bar first opened in 1909 and for decades was the gathering place for Costa Ricans and expats 24-hours a day. I remember grabbing a bite there in the wee hours of the night after the nearby Salamanca and Túnel de Tiempo discotheques and Key Largo Bar closed. Chelles was a required late-night stop for night owls and ‘the place’ where the party ended in the 1980s and 1990s.

The restaurant was originally opened by a Frenchman whose last name was Chase, but Costa Rican had trouble pronouncing and spelling his name, so they ended up calling it, Chelles. Chelles became synonymous with good music, delicious home-made sandwiches, a place for friends to meet and mix with all of the colorful local characters, keep up with the latest news and gossip or to just shoot the breeze. Most of those, who frequented this emblematic landmark at one time or another, were saddened to find out about its demise.

Several factors contributed to Chellles’ closing. An increase in rent and operating costs, the current economic crisis, a lack of nearby parking on the street and the changing tastes of the younger generations. The latter seem to prefer foodcourts in Malls, fast food chains and the burgeoning number of restaurants that cater to the “foodie” crowd in areas like Barrio Escalante.

The Soda Castro, Soda El Parque and Soda Tapia are other restaurants that have been around since yesteryear and are fighting to stay alive in an ever changing market. The former is famous for its gargantuan fruit salads and has been in its current location for almost 70 years. The family owned business has been forced to raise prices periodically but has always maintained the quality and quantity of its food to keep its loyal customers.

El Soda El Parque opened 58 years ago and is still going strong thanks to its innovative family ownership. In the 1970s and 1980s the place really thrived because of the neighboring movie houses and dance halls around San José. However, both of these types of entertainment venues eventually died out and El Soda Parque has had to struggle to survive. Fortunately, The owners have adapted to the times and now use tools like Facebook to market their business to reach more people. They realize that it is necessary to reinvent their business periodically to keep up with changes and tastes of the current market. For example, in addition to their regular menu, they now off a special lunch called a Plato Ejecutivo for around $6 dollars to attract people who work in the area.

Finally, La Soda Tapia, located on the east side of the Sabana Park and across from the Nation Gymnasium, is another old-time eatery that has withstood the test of time in the face of ever changing tastes. Fortunately, its excellent location and reputation have played a key role in helping the business stay afloat. The owners have also expanded by opening branches in other locations and use Facebook to promote their business.

Expat retirees who want to experience a slice of the old San José and savor a variety of popular Costa Rican dishes should pay a visit to any or all of the eateries. ¡No se va a arrepentir! (You won’t regret it!)